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Detached satin-nickel lever hardware, tubular latch and strike plate on a wooden workbench. — Lock Replacement & Upgrade, Toronto
A silver-colored deadbolt set in clear packaging with two keys resting on the countertop in front. — Lock Rekeying, Toronto

Change or rekey · Toronto

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

The century home's original mortise lock takes a key the size of a spoon, sticks in humid weather and has worn its strike to a groove.

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In plain words

A keypad or smart lock is a lock replacement with a few extra steps, and it suits households where keys circulate widely. The locksmith fits the new deadbolt to the existing bore, checks that the bolt throws freely so the motor is never straining against a misaligned strike, sets up user codes and any phone pairing, and shows you the mechanical override and the battery warning. Because these locks still rely on a bolt and a strike, the same attention goes into the frame as for any deadbolt. You gain convenience without giving up the mechanical basics that make a door hard to force.

Sound familiar?

The brass handleset has gone blotchy and green where the winter salt reaches it, and the coating on the deadbolt is lifting in flakes. It still locks, but it looks tired beside the fresh paint on the door.

How the visit goes

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

How the visit goes

Handheld diagnostic unit with a screen and buttons lying on a dirty car floor mat, cabled to a port under the dash.
Wooden door with a dark lever handle and empty round bore, beside a deadbolt, latch, screws and screwdriver on a case.
  1. The key plan for the whole house

    A lock is only half of a system; the other half is who holds which key. The locksmith asks how many exterior doors there are, which ones should open with the same key, whether a garage man-door or a shed should join them, and who in the household needs a key of their own. If keys have been lent out over the years, the plan can retire all of them at once. Where copying keys without permission is a worry, a restricted keyway can be offered. Settling this before the hardware is chosen means the new locks arrive ready to be pinned alike rather than fixed up afterwards.

  2. Stepping up the grade of a deadbolt

    When the brief is a stronger door, the new deadbolt is chosen for what is inside it: a bolt with a full 25 millimetre throw and a hardened steel insert that spins against a saw, a housing that stands low so a wrench has nothing to grip, and a cylinder with pins that resist picking and bumping. Fitting follows the normal steps, but the locksmith confirms the bolt reaches full extension with the door closed, because a high-grade bolt seated halfway into a shallow pocket behaves like a low-grade one. The strike is upgraded alongside it so both halves of the lock share the same standard.

  3. The rental paperwork, quietly sorted

    If the door belongs to a rental unit, the visit finishes with the keys in the right hands. When a landlord orders the change, giving the tenant a full set of new keys is standard practice. When a tenant orders it with the landlord's consent, a key for the landlord is cut alongside the household's and the consent is noted. The locksmith can leave a short written record of the hardware fitted and the keys issued for the property file, so both sides know what is on the door and nobody is surprised at the next inspection or move-out.

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

In the van

  • 75 millimetre strike and hinge screws

  • Adjustable latch or bolt

  • Cylinders, plug follower and pinning kit

  • Reinforced strike plate and strike box

  • Key blanks and key cutter

Technician holding a three-button key fob at a workbench with a tablet, two spare fobs, a notebook and a pegboard behind.

Lock Replacement & Upgrade

What affects the quote

  1. Number of doors

    One back door is a small visit; the front, back, side, garage man-door and patio slider together are a longer one, though several doors done at once share the travel and setup.

  2. Keys cut

    Each key is counted, and restricted keys cut against a card are a different item from standard blanks. Say how many people need one and the quote lists them.

  3. Door material and thickness

    Wood, steel and fibreglass doors are drilled and fitted differently, and a door thicker than the standard 45 millimetres needs extension parts, so the door itself shapes part of the quote.

What to have ready

  • Is the door wood, steel or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
  • Which doors are you thinking about, and what is on each one now?
  • How many keys does the household need, and should copying be restricted?
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Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions

Questions
I have just bought a house. What should I do about the locks?

Assume that copies of the old keys exist somewhere and act on the day you take possession. Walk every exterior door with the locksmith, keep hardware that is sound and have it rekeyed to a new key, replace hardware that is worn or too light, and add a deadbolt to any door that lacks one. Ask for everything to be keyed alike so you leave with one key and a known number of copies.

What information helps before the visit?

Photographs of each lock from outside and inside, plus one of the door edge showing the latch plate and one of the strike on the frame, tell the locksmith most of what they need. Add the door thickness if you can measure it, whether the door is wood, steel or fibreglass, the finish you want to match, how many doors are involved and whether you want them all on one key.

Is a smart lock a good upgrade, and what happens when the batteries run out?

For a household with many people coming and going, codes that can be added and removed are a real convenience. Behind the keypad it is still a deadbolt, so grade and strike matter as much as ever. Batteries typically last months and the lock warns you as they fade; depending on the model, a dead battery is handled with a mechanical override key or with external contacts for a temporary power source, so it is worth confirming which one your lock uses.

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